The Story of Heart Cut Diamonds

Hearts have long been a symbol of love, where thousands of years ago, it was believed that the heart was the centre of all human emotion. However, before the 13^th century, the shape was usually drawn for decorative purposes and the idea of romantic love didn’t wasn’t attached to it.

It was in the 14^th century that the scalloped shape of the heart made its appearance. By the 15^th century, hearts had become a symbol of ‘courtly love’ and the rules dictating romantic behaviour. This then filtered down into literature, art and poetry.

More recently, heart shaped diamonds have become a popular cut used for precious stones in jewellery. As a gemstone shape, the heart cut diamond is unique in that it is cut with 59 facets, each reflecting the light in the diamond equally.

Historians have traced the earliest mention of the heart cut gemstone back to the mid 1400’s, where it is casually mentioned in a letter from the Duke of Milan Galeazzo Maria Sforza: “He commands a Titus Livy just as you might a heart-shaped diamond”. It is believed that the stone shape had been pioneered by Lodewyk and Berquem, who created new techniques in diamond cutting, including their invention of the diamond polishing wheel and their discovery that diamonds can be cut by their own dust in 1458. They also introduced the idea of absolute facet symmetry.

By the mid-1500s, the heart shaped diamond had become synonymous with royalty. For Mary Queen of Scots, the jewel was a symbol of friendship and goodwill, and in 1562 she sent Queen Elizabeth a heart shaped diamond ring set in gold. Cardinal de Richelieu (1585-1642) was also known to own a heart shaped diamond weighing 20 carats. It was originally willed to the king by Alphonse Lopez - a diamond merchant who settled in Paris in 1610.

If you want to are thinking of buying a heart shaped engagement or anniversary ring and are wondering about how to choose the right one, we’ve got some advice for you.

The most important factor to consider is the quality of the curved cut and finish, as these determine the sparkle. This heart cut diamond has also been known, whether for good or bad, as being susceptible to the bow tie effect. A diamond bowtie is a shadow in the shape of a bowtie, running along the width of a diamond and usually in the centre. Pay attention to the light in the diamond and decide whether this is something you would want.

A slight bowtie effect is sometimes the marker of a good cut, and its contrast enhances the diamond’s aesthetics. Be sure to choose a symmetrical stone so that it is easy to differentiate between a pear-shaped stone and a heart-shaped stone. The smaller the size of the diamond, the more difficult it is to create the heart shape, so it’s often wise to choose a diamond that is over 0.5 carats and make sure you choose the right size to show off the cut. 

Finally, choose the setting for the stone wisely to maximise the brilliance and prominence of the diamond in the ring.